About two-thirds of the way in, our driver Super Dave pulled over to the left and pointed to the other side of the valley. The Pitons had appeared, and what a show they were putting on. Mountainous volcanic spires covered in lush emerald, Gros and Petit Pitons like rockets on the southwest coast of St. Lucia. A symbol of the island and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its connecting ridge sits over a rather dusty bay towards which we were heading.
Turning just before Soufriere, the former capital of the island named after the French “sulphur in the air”, we begin our descent towards Sugar Beach and its hundred acres of former sugar and banana plantations. Meandering through lush gardens and grounds where white cottages adorned with gingerbread were perched in trees like eagles’ nests, we overlooked the table in front and stopped at 108, our spacious apartment for the next few days.
We were assigned a committed “butler,” the brilliant Markenzie, who looked more like a special forces agent and was available by phone 24/7; as well as perspectives so beautiful that, as teenagers in need of love, we don’t communicate anything else about our stay.
Our terrace, framed like a postcard through the majestic Petit Piton, descended through a personal path to the beach of crystal clear jade-colored waters. There was a smell of white lotus, a feeling that only intensified as we dressed in our best clothes for the manager’s drinks at the South Pier, where visitors gather every Wednesday to socialize over champagne and canapés as the sun sets.
Sugar B, of course, attracts the honeymoon brigade thanks to the hidden vibe of its rooms, with its own pool. But there are also many families, many of them multigenerational, teams of friends, and solo travelers to balance the environment. .
After a hearty breakfast at the old plantation house, everyone gathered on the main beach or by the pool to pack their lounge chairs for the day. The kids played table tennis and croquet, and the younger generation played piña coladas. Further down the beach (all of St. Lucia’s beaches are public), locals offered boat tours and water taxis, tourist necklaces and T-shirts, and even mixed milkshakes and rum punches at a floating bar.
There were snorkels and masks to borrow from the pastel pink water sports hut to explore the marine reserve, a stunning underwater display of tropical fish and intricate coral creations; while the more adventurous signed up for rowing, donut rides and sessions with Hobie cats. If you want to take a break from the sun, you can sign up for Sugar Beach’s new self-guided excursion to his personal art collection, which punctuates its indoor spaces and grounds, and includes outdoor sculptures by Tom Sachs and Daniel Arsham; Or take a stroll to the fabulous rainforest spa for a coconut oil massage.
It’s hard to leave the hotel (and I’m not a fan of the hotel), but I strongly intend to do so. The domain is action-packed, from gentle to volcanic. Fancy a sunset cruise on a catamaran?Do you need to slather yourself with sulfuric powder or do a chocolate tasting?The same is true.
We probably wouldn’t have climbed the Pitons (we didn’t bring the right shoes or mindset), but we did take an early morning guided hike to Tet Paul, a short, easy hiking trail through the sweet potato and pineapple forests that rewards its conquerors. with phenomenal perspectives of the Pitons from above. A potential encounter on the beach led to another highlight: a morning at sea with Shashamane, who offers water taxis and personalized tours of the island’s offerings.
After driving around the headland, we drove to Soufriere for a trip to the Saturday morning market, stocking up on sulfuric soaps, hot sauces, and local spices. We stopped to swim in the turquoise shallow waters near Jade Mountain and dragged fishing lines. As we pass, we crossed our hands to get a great catch that we can take to the chefs at Sugar Beach for lunch. Our rods didn’t produce anything in total, but it was the best morning.
And now to the food. St. Lucia’s cuisine is a testament to its history, and every bite is a testament to its people over the centuries. The result is a proud blend of Creole, British, and French flavors with Indian influences, all driven through the abundance of herbs. of St. Lucian ingredients.
On our boat ride, Shashamane took a detour to the Paradise Beach Hotel so we can simply enjoy “the roti of the island”: prawns wrapped in a springy dough and swimming in a turmeric curry sauce that stains our fingertips. Back in Sugar Beach, El Jalousie Grill has temporarily become my favorite spot, where we feast on grilled tandoori kingfish and garlic lobster with our feet dipped in the sand. Otherwise, we went from casual to dressy, ordering ceviche and salads from our living room chairs. in the front row and enjoying the cuts of meat on the terrace of Saltwood, the most sublime restaurant in the hotel.
In the taxi back to the airport, as Super Dave regaled us with his stories of night spearfishing and the island recipes he loves to cook, I made a pact to return to St. Lucia. To explore a little more, eat a little more roti and even hop on a Piton or two. Before you go to bed, of course, on one of the 4 cloud-shaped signs on Sugar Beach.
From £3079 per user for seven nights at Sugar Beach Viceroy, foreign flights to St. Lucia; turquesa. es
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