Q. My brother has a 1980 Jeep that he needs to rebuild and that he started dismantling in 2005. Since about 2009, the engine and transmission have been placed under a two-story porch. I tried to tell him, since it’s been being outdoors for so long, he wants a lot of work. I think the internal components of the engine and transmission have started to rust. Turns out, he thinks that once he puts everything back together, with just a few small tweaks, he’s going through to be smart as he passes. I think the entire Jeep and all its parts deserve to be scrapped. What is your opinion and opinions on this situation?
A. Although it may start and run, problems will most likely arise. Piston rings can get stuck and never come loose. The seals can dry out and the front and rear main seals can leak. The head gaskets would possibly start to dissolve if most of the coolant was acidic. If it were my engine and transmission and I was looking for a reliable vehicle, I would do at least one undeniable rebuild. This would start with new gaskets and gaskets, adding valve gaskets. Clean any rust ridges on the cylinders and rings. The other challenge is that you also don’t know how smart the engine was when it was parked. Yes, you can put the engine back into position with fresh fluids and hope for the best, but in most cases, you end up with a bad smoker from an engine that leaks oil.
Q. Some of the fuses in my car and toolbox have a big hill shape in the middle, but others are S-shaped. What for?
A. The core component of the fuse is designed to melt when the amperage is too high, to prevent electrical and upgrade damage to it. All the other designs do the same job, protecting those components. When replacing a fuse, upgrade it with a fusible. de the same length and type.
Q. We’ll be leaving in a few weeks for a three-week vacation on the road that will cover approximately 2,000 miles. I have a 2013 Hyundai Tucson with 120,000 miles on it (which just passed your inspection) and a 2017 Subaru Legacy with 15,000 miles. We planned I chose the Legacy because it uses less fuel and has less wear and tear, I didn’t have any major issues with the Tucson. The Legacy has been lightly driven and used only locally, and isn’t even driven on highways. Can I or want to do to prepare the Legacy for this holiday?
A. Either car will be fine, but here are my considerations about the Subaru: If the tires are in inventory seven years old, I would check them carefully for age-related cracks. The battery, if original, would possibly be at the end of its life. Other than that, if it’s been a while, an oil upgrade is a good idea. During the oil update, the technician will check all other important fluids and will need to perform a critical protection check of the car. I would also update the wiper blades and check the spare tire. Once the car is ready, gather a small emergency kit (flares, flashlight, windshield washer fluid, coolant, oil, jumper cables/jumper pack, gloves, compressor air) and enjoy the ride.
Q. I recently bought a battery-effect wrench online (admittedly it was cheap), but I couldn’t even loosen the lug nuts on my car. I heard you mention one that you tried on your radio show. Can you give me a little more detail?
A. The key I was talking about was from the WORX company. It uses the same 20 volt battery as my lawn equipment. It was the heavy-duty edition with a claimed torque of 1,500 pound-feet. I’m not sure about the numbers. However, it got rid of the nuts on my boat trailer and rusty vehicles without any problems. My suggestion for all wireless devices is that when you add new devices, stick with the same brand. This way you will regularly have a spare and hopefully it will be fully charged. Battery on hand whenever you want it.
John Paul is the automotive doctor for AAA Northeast. He has over 40 years of experience in the automotive industry and is an ASE Certified Master Technician. Email your inquiry to Car Doctor at [email protected]. Listen to the Car Doctor podcast at johnfpaul. podbean. com.