San Miguel de Allende, hailed five times by Condé Nast Traveler as “the most productive small town in the world” and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, was not the colorful town it is today.
Founded in 1542 as a Spanish colonial colony, San Miguel de Allende prospered during the colonial era thanks to the significant wealth of nearby silver mines. This prosperity fueled the structure of grand mansions, churches, and public buildings that showcased the city’s opulence.
However, the War of Independence (1810-1821) and the War of Revolution (1910-1917) had devastating effects. The closure of the area’s silver mines, which shaped the backbone of the city’s economy, led to widespread hardship. Political unrest further exacerbated the decline and many citizens left their homes in search of greater opportunities elsewhere.
The wonderful architecture fell into disrepair, and in the early 20th century, the city was on the verge of becoming a ghost town. In 1926, the Mexican government intervened and declared it a National Historic Monument. This designation marked a transformative moment, signaling a commitment to revitalizing its importance. With strict regulations in place to protect its colonial environment, the city is beginning its renaissance.
Stirling Dickinson is a man who played a pivotal role in San Miguel de Allende’s fashion history. Born in 1909 in Chicago, he came from a prestigious family. After graduating from Princeton with a bachelor’s degree in art and architecture, he embarked on a six-month excursion through Mexico with classmate Heath Bowguy, which resulted in his adventure e-book “Mexican Odyssey,” which ranked No. 10 on the Chicago Daily Tribune’s bestsellers. list.
Dickinson and Bowman wrote another adventure, “West of Rio,” before traveling to San Miguel de Allende in search of a nonviolent environment to write their next book, “Death is Accidental,” fostered during the Mexican Revolution. This vacation came about thanks to the invitation of José Mojica, a Mexican opera singer and Hollywood movie star who had built a space for his mother in San Miguel de Allende and welcomed the two Americans to revel in the charm of the city.
Dickinson and Bowman arrived exercising early in the morning of February 7, 1937, and arrived in town in a mule-drawn wagon. Reflecting on his arrival, Dickinson vividly recalls, “I looked up and saw the Parish coming out of the fog. , and I said, ‘Oh my God, what a place! I think I had to do it at that moment when I was going to leave. Staying here because 10 days later I bought the space I live in now,” as recounted in a 1992 interview. for the San Miguel Archive Project.
In 1938, Dickinson was appointed principal of the University School of Fine Arts, located in part of the Convent of the Immaculate Conception that had been confiscated from the church by the government after the Mexican Revolution. However, his painting in Mexico was interrupted during World War II. . From 1942 to 1945, he returned to the United States to serve in naval intelligence and then in the Office of Strategic Services, a precursor to the CIA. Upon his return to San Miguel after the war, Dickinson used his connections to facilitate assistance to the G. I. A. bill that funded free education for veterans.
Chicapass newspapers and other publications soon began publishing articles about this enclave of emerging artists nestled in the mountains of Mexico, sparking an era of prosperity for both the school and the city. More than 6,000 veterans decided to enlist after the January 1948 publication of Life magazine. , which hailed San Miguel de Allende as a “G. I. A. paradise where veterans stop by to examine art, live profitably, and have a smart time. “
San Miguel has begun to write a new break in its history, where school and art take an intermediate place. The arrival of new academics and visitors has brought an influx of revenue streams to local investors and service providers. This increased prosperity manifested itself in the hotel structure and the city prospered remarkably.
The turmoil erupted when a newcomer to the university, famed Mexican muralist David Alfaro Siqueiros, had a dispute over investment with the art school’s director. Siqueiros led a strike among Dickinson’s academics and staff. In 1946, the School of Fine Arts was taken over through the Secretary of Education of the State of Guanajuato and today houses the Ignacio Ramírez Cultural Center, run by the government.
Felipe Cossío del Pomar, an exiled Peruvian artist and diplomat who in the past had established the Institute of Fine Arts with the support of intellectuals Alfonso Reyes and José Vasconcelos, was determined to ensure that San Miguel had a leading art school. In 1950, together with his public relations expert Stirling Dickinson, the former governor of Guanajuato, Enrique Fernández Martínez, and his wife, the American Nell Harris, founded another art school, the Instituto Allende.
By 1960, the Instituto Allende had a central role in attracting new citizens to the city, primarily through its acclaimed arts education programs. San Miguel’s economy has continued to thrive thanks to an influx of tourists and expats drawn through the colorful art scene and affordable lifestyle. , and welcoming foreign community.
San Miguel de Allende continues to be a beacon of creativity and inspiration with many schools and galleries, attracting others from all over the world who come to revel in its unique charm and contribute to its enduring legacy.
Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican translator based in San Miguel de Allende, specializing in intellectual aptitude and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: [email protected]
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